Trip>Mexico City

Here are the highlights from my trip to DF from 2005. I'm posting out of town jaunts first in hopes that you will venture out, because the places are truly incredible. 

Outside DF:

1. Ciudad Universitaria (UNAM) - This place is IT> I'm pretty sure you can get there by subway, probably an hour or so from the city center. The campus was built in an area of town that was destroyed by volcano, a tabula rasa. You can see the influence of CIAM/Corb in its International Style planning and massive scale. Highlights: an awesome Siquieros mural, the central library covered on all sides by Juan O'Gorman murals (go inside the library to the top floor and look out the tiny windows), a small pavilion by Felix Candela, and the gem is Espacio Escultorico - a land sculpture built around an untouched area of volcanic rock, the original site condition. Feels like what Maya Lin strives for. (this is also where i was when i found out my car had been stolen in austin...ah)

2. San Angel: Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo  - this house is kind of like an early Corbusien house, but I dunno, funkier?  Designed by Juan O'Gorman in 1934, includes Rivera's studio and some very cool circulation passages. While in San Angel, cross the street to the San Angel Inn, a former pulque hacienda, for some tasty margaritas.

3. Coyoacan: If I remember correctly, Coyoacan is a really cute town (stop and eat here if you have the time, there are also markets). Mainly, this is where to find Frida Kahlo's Blue House- between her collection of exvotos and the intricate garden courtyard, it's not to miss.  I think this house may have been prominently featured in the Salma Hayek Frida movie, but you should see it in person!

4. TEOTIHUACAN. (of course). If you have a day to go here, do it! it's a tourist nightmare, but climbing the pyramids is a fantastic experience. Also if you happen to stay in the area overnight, climb the Temple of the Sun (third largest pyramid in the world) right when the park opens - like 6:30 or something. you'll be the only ones there (very different from the normal scene) and it feels great. Also, it's cool to know that a guard sleeps at the top of the Temple of the Sun EVERY night. I want that job!

Okay, DF:

1. Standard fare: the big tourist draws at the city center around the Zocolo- Metropolitan Cathedral, Museo Templo Mayor (where the Aztecs spotted the eagle that would mark the center of their universe), the awesome Rivera murals at the Palacio National. Walk around this area, there are lots of nice plazas. Watch your belongings.

2. I don't know if this still exists, but when i was there, if you went to the plaza in front of the Museo Nacional de Arte on a Saturday night, you would see a HUGE gathering of people doing freestyle tribal dancing - apparently they do this every Saturday night and anyone can join. I wish I lived there!

3.  Palacio des Belles Artes has some really monumental revolutionary murals by the Big Three (Rivera, Siquieros, Orozco).

4.  Bosque de Chapultepec - This public park is the coolest on a Sunday when everyone's out. Within this area, I would hit: (1) Museo Nacional de Antropologia - best collection of pre-Columbian artifacts. Also has a courtyard with an incredible umbrella canopy that looks like it's supported by a single column (but really has cables tying back to a central mast that you can't see).  (2) Museo Rufino Tamayo - The 4th best known artist in Mexico, the building that houses his works is monumental and all about the daylight. 

 

5.  Casa Barragan - Besides the house, the real draw is the garden. Be warned that all of Barragan's sites are owned by Vitra, and you can't so much as touch anything without the docent freaking out. Actually the funniest memory for me was when the docent took off his shoes, and put on footsies to show us where the inaccessible stair led to. OKAY. One of my favorite things is that the house does not have any lighting in the ceilings, apparently he wired outlets into the tables so that he could walk room to room with a lamp to plug in. Ooh, also not to miss is Barragan's photos of Iman next to his bed - the man lived like a monk and yet, worshipped Iman. Anyways, I think Casa Gilardi is across the street (the famous one with the indoor reflection pool), so check that one out too.

6. Hotel Camino Real - this is the project that got Legorreta famous. Features huge murals by Tamayo and Goeritz - go here for a drink at dusk. 

7.  Studio of David Alfaro Siquieros - I think this is in Polanco, one of the posh districts (near Chapultepec Park). I think Siquieros is my favorite of the Big 3 - his work has this intensity and freedom to it that gives life and momentum to each piece. This is not one of the best museums to see his work, but i think it's an example of a really cool small gallery - down to the Siquieros-drawn men and women bathroom signs. 

8. Hotel Habita - Enrique Norten - I think i heard that this is the hotel that men used to take their mistresses to. I was never able to get in, but supposedly has a great rooftop bar. Maybe it's dated by now.

9.  Condesa - this was THE hip district for going out when i was there circa 2005. Lots of cool bars, there was one we went to that was only open on Wednesday nights (luckily for us) and it was all white (like corian surface everywhere) with only red lighting. Stay here if you can.

10. Eating: Cafe Tacuba - before the awesome band was the restaurant - food is good, atmosphere rocks - this is a historic place.

11. Eating: Los Girasoles - next to the Museo de Nacional Arte - really good food

12. Eating: Rincon Argentino - in Polanco - best Argentinean steaks in town. Cool intimate atmosphere from what i remember.

13. Eating: Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles)- this is near the Belles Artes i think, really beautiful intricately blue and white tiled colonial mansion, now houses a Sanborns restaurant which, although a chain, is good, and more importantly, has a really memorable feel to the place, it's a landmark. 

Lastly, don't forget about the markets! they are great, just avoid the meat section.